Hoy hemos llegado a trabajar y había una novedad en los sacos de la ropa limpia, en vez de los pantalones a cuadros Vichy de otros días, habían llegado unos pantalones con grandes cuadros negros y blancos que nos hacían parecer payasos enharinados, ha habido cachondeo toda la noche al respecto. En la foto salgo retratado con Andy.
Poco a poco voy cogiendo el ritmo de las cosas; las fermentaciones, los reposos, los horneados; y poco a poco encuentro rincones que me agradan de manera especial. Por supuesto, el lugar de honor lo tiene el horno*. Tenemos varios hornos, el principal es uno de 5 pisos, con todas las cosas con las que sueña un panadero casero. Tiene botoncitos de colores y cada piso lleva una alarma diferente, cuando estás haciendo varias hornadas simultáneas y llega el momento de sacar los panes, empieza un pitido polifónico, como si fuera un órgano de iglesia. Cada piso tiene también una solera de piedra (con la que es relativamente fácil quemarse).
Creo que la pieza que más me gusta es la palanca que abre la válvula de ventilación. La dejas metida y está cerrada, la sacas y se abre. Esto es muy útil para manejar tanto la temperatura como la humedad. Me recuerda a los mandos de un acorazado, o mejor; de un submarino.
El horno también tiene algo con lo que he soñado muchas veces, inyectores de vapor, como este de aquí debajo. Bello.
Cuando lo accionas sale un chorro de vapor que facilita la expansión del pan en el horno y crea cortezas de campeonato (en la foto inferior derecha); también lo puedes usar para variar la temperatura, tiene hasta 9 programas. Al inicio de una hornada, cuando inyectas vapor, hay un «psss» muy sonoro, y en seguida se pone el horno a preparar más vapor, de manera aún más sonora si cabe. Si abrieras la puerta del horno en ese momento, es más que probable que acabaras quemándote. Una vez que el vapor ha hecho su función es cuando accionas la palanca de ventilación, para dejarlo escapar y conseguir que la corteza quede perfecta.
Pero, curiosamente, lo que más me gusta del horno es el momento de la limpieza. Con cada hornada se cuelan en el horno todo tipo de partículas, desde semillas de los panes, a sémola de arroz o trozos de papel parafinado; así que hay que estar constantemente limpiándolo con una larga escoba de madera. Hay algo muy especial en el hecho de limpiar cada recoveco del horno sin dejar nada detrás, una especie de relación íntima con ese mastodonte de acero; acariciar con las cerdas de la escoba la solera de piedra, mimándolo. Me gusta dejarlo bien limpio después de cada pan, y brillante al final de la noche.
Hoy ha sido un día tranquilo, hemos tenido tiempo para hacer un par de cientos de scones, y había en una esquina unos grisines que nos han acompañado toda la noche, tenían pimienta, chile y sal.
* Posiblemente el premio a la máquina más aburrida se lo lleve la fermentadora, un gran armario que abres y no parece que esté haciendo nada, no notas grandes cambios de temperatura ni nada en especial.
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