Semlor, bollos de cuaresma suecos. Una masa enriquecida con leche, mantequilla y huevo, aromatizada con cardamomo y rellena con crema de mazapán y nata montada. Pecar un poco antes del tiempo de penitencia y reflexión. Bueno, eso.
La primera vez que los tomé fue en Uppsala, dio la casualidad que estuve en Suecia en temporada de semlor (aunque es un dulce para un momento bastante concreto, hoy en día en los países nórdicos se pueden encontrar durante varios meses). Recuerdo aquel momento, nunca lo olvidaré. Estaba con Markus, un chico que acababa de conocer y, tras el primer mordisco, le dije que jamás olvidaría aquel día en que él me acompañaba en ese instante de revelación.
Primero levantas la tapa, y ese mordisco al capuchón cubierto de azúcar glas e impregnado en nata es sublime. La masa dulce impregna la nata de tal modo que parece que el cardamomo está en la nata, no en la masa (no deja de alucinarme cómo queda el cardamomo en masas dulces enriquecidas con lácteos). Luego, abrirte camino a mordiscos hasta el corazón relleno de crema de mazapán. Los semlor, al igual que lo que ocurre con los bollos de canela o cardamomo, son más densos que los bollos españoles, hay que masticarlos y dejar que sus aromas estallen en la boca.
Anders, el granjero y panadero que me albergó en Suecia, me enseñó a comer los semlor en tazón, untados en leche; «ahora ya sabes cómo sabe mi infancia», recuerdo que me dijo. Es algo increíble, al dejar un semla a remojo en leche caliente, cuando le atacas con la cuchara, la parte inferior parece casi una torrija tibia de cardamomo, lo que es el contrapunto perfecto para la miga aromática, el corazón de mazapán y la parte superior con nata montada fresca. Uno no puede más que maravillarse ante la sabiduría de estas gentes.
Ayer, junto a mi amigo Javier, pertrechados de buenas harinas y más nata de la que es razonable tener en casa, nos dedicamos a perpetuar esta tradición. En casa es imposible tomar sólo uno. Primero cae uno tal cual, luego este momento único de comunión se prolonga bien empapado en leche.
Ante el primer mordisco a un semla uno sólo puede sonreír, celebrar la felicidad de estar vivo y compartir aquello con los que quieres.
Después, pensar en ello, preguntarte la inexplicable capacidad evocadora de estos bollos, sus aromas embriagadores. De la misma manera que te preguntas la inexplicable capacidad evocadora de cualquier pan especial, casero, hecho con cariño, regalado o compartido. Aquí debajo, Javier, cuchara en mano, preguntándose a sí mismo por el hecho mágico del torrijamiento o torrijación que sucede en la base de los semlor tras remojarlos en leche.
Estos son los momentos memorables. La memoria del pan.
La receta en sí no tiene mucho misterio, está sacada del libro «Stora boken om bakning» («El gran libro de panes y pasteles»), un clásico de panadería casera de la editorial de los supermercados ICA. Es chocante, esta cadena de supermercados tiene su propia editorial y muchos de sus libros son auténticos monumentos gastroliterarios. Por ejemplo, esta misma receta aparece en «Sju sorters kakor» («7 tipos de pasteles»), el libro que celebra la dulcería sueca y la tradición según la cual cuando invitas a alguien a tomar café y pasteles tienes que servir al menos 7 tipos diferentes (Jan Hedh, maestro panadero y pastelero ha llevado esto al paroxismo con su libro «277 tipos de pasteles«). Este «Sju sorters kakor» es como el Simone Ortega de los dulces suecos, lleva vendidos más de 3,5 millones de ejemplares (esto en un país de 9 millones, España tiene 45; es como si un libro de pastelería aquí vendiera más de 15 millones de ejemplares). Esto da una idea de cómo se las gastan allí arriba.
Por lo general, muchos libros abusan de la cantidad de levadura, así que yo rebajaría un poco la que viene (50 g). Una cuestión llamativa es que la masa no es demasiado húmeda, es manejable, se amasa sin problemas sin que se pegue, y el resultado es un bollo algo más denso de lo que se suele ver por España.
Algo que me encanta de los libros de panadería suecos es que suelen medir los ingredientes por volumen (como en los libros ingleses y americanos), pero usando el sistema métrico decimal, no el imperial. Por ejemplo, expresan la harina o el azúcar en litros. Al principio parece algo extraño, pero a mí me ha seducido. Es rápido y efectivo. Las pilas siempre se agotan.
La receta usa hjorthornssalt (carbonato de amonio), un dinosaurio de los productos químicos para levar masas, que aún se usa en los países del centro y norte de Europa, algo realmente increíble. Aquí un poquito más de información. Aunque no produce una ligereza igual, el hjorthornssalt se puede sustituir por Royal (por suerte, este es el tipo de cosas que encuentras en los cajones de casa de Javier). En esta receta, también se podría incluso omitir.
En general, usar leche UHT es triste, una leche muerta y sin sabor; pero en recetas como esta es esencial usar buena leche, leche fresca, y lo mismo ocurre con la nata. Merece la pena buscar nata fresca (no UHT) para intentar reproducir de alguna manera las sensaciones de un buen semla.
Receta de semlor – Para 10-12 bollos
Conservo la expresión de las cantidades en volumen, me parece delicioso, y tiene un toque del misterio de desentrañar una receta nueva.
75-100 g de mantequilla
3 dl de leche
50 g de levadura (con 25 g va que chuta)
1/2 cucharada de postre de sal
1 dl de azúcar
1 huevo
1 cucharada de postre de cardamomo molido
1/2 cucharada de postre de hjorthornssalt (digo yo que se puede sustituir por Royal)
1 litro de harina de trigo
Huevo para pincelar y azúcar glas para decorar
Para el relleno.
150 g de crema de mazapan. En IKEA venden unas pastillas de mazapán muy efectivas (aunque conviene reducirlas a pasta con un poco de agua). Pero siempre se puede elaborar una crema casera de manera rápida; 1 1/2 dl (100 g) de almendra molida, 1 dl de azúcar, aprox 1 dl de leche.
2 dl de nata para montar (la nata nunca es suficiente)
Se calienta la leche para que se disuelva bien la mantequilla; cuando esté a temperatura corporal, se disuelve la levadura y se añaden el resto de los ingredientes. Se trabaja hasta que esté fina y se deja fermentar 30 minutos (si pones cerca de 25 g de levadura, mejor espera algo más de una hora). Una vez la masa haya doblado su volumen, se dividen, pesan y forman las bolas de masa que serán finalmente los bollos (de unos 100 g) y se deja que fermenten sobre un papel de hornear. Se precalienta el horno a 250º C. Cuando hayan doblado casi su volumen otra vez, se pincelan y se hornean unos 10 minutos a unos 200º (si tienes ventilador en el horno, este es el momento de usarlo; si ves que se te doran demasiado, apágalo). Una vez fríos, se corta la parte superior, se vacía un poco de la miga y se rellenan. Sobre la forma de cortar la tapa hay distintas escuelas; en triángulo, en boinita, etc. Para el relleno se quita un poco de miga del interior y se rellena con pasta de almendra (como un mazapán cremoso), un disco de aproximadamente de 1 cm de espesor por unos 5 de diámetro. Después se pone nata montada (en plan finolis se hace con manga; en plan casero, a cucharadas), se vuelve a colocar la tapa y se espolvorea con azúcar glas.
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